Thursday, June 21, 2012

Grossglockner Alpine Road

The number one attraction in this area is the Grossglockner Alpine Road, built between 1930 and 1935, which travels, via many twists and turns, to the Pasterze glacier, with the Glockner summit (3798m) rising behind.  We took our cool weather gear but unfortunately not all our rain gear with us.


Pasterze glacier
The road is quite fantastic for motorcycles and we saw a good number, though probably not what an August weekend would produce.  Many of the bikes were Triumphs, though mostly the sporty Tiger model, not the staid Bonneville that we ride. Of course they were here for the weekend Triumph gathering nearby.


The views actually outdid the road in impressiveness.  Clouds started to gather but the peaks stayed clear for most of the day.  Every hairpin turn opened another fine vista.  We reached the glacier overlook at 1:30, walked and viewed a bit, ate our picnic, and spent an hour at various exhibitions in the National Park building.  These included a history of the building of the road, snow clearing, and a number of vehicle races that use the road annually--historic cars, motorcycles, vespa scooters, bicycles, in-line skaters (downhill only), and even tractors. 


filling the tank--gas was the solution


After departing the glacier, Rob wanted to take a look further south down the valley, which delayed our return ascent and descent of the Alpine Road.  By the time we started up the clouds were threatening, and rain hit before we reached the summit.  A very wet ride, but manageable until the engine died.  This phenomenon has been a problem with this bike in wet weather.  We twice had to stop and wait until the bike would restart.  Finally, 5k from our Zell am See target, the bike died and would not restart.  Luckily we were able to roll under an overpass since the rain (and a bit of lightning and thunder) continued, heavily at times. Could the problem this time be a lack of gas? Should I go on?


Rob finally decided that an empty tank was a possibility.  The GPS showed a station 600 meters away, so off he walked  in the rain.  Half an hour later he turned up in a taxi.  The gas station had no power and therefore could not pump gas.  But they called him a taxi which then took him to another station; he returned with the gas, started the bike, and bike and taxi (taking no chances now) were off to Pension Andrea, arriving at 8:30. 


Late as it was, Rob was inclined to walk to the lake and experience the advertised evening of authentic Austrian music.  I couldn't bring myself to join him in the rain, but will include photos of the event. (Later:  He just returned, reporting that the only occupants at the bar were four band members and two staff. Performance cancelled due to rain)



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