Konopiste Castle to Kutna Hora

Some of Franz Ferdinand's trophies.

We headed up the hill to Konopiste Castle and signed up for the 11AM tour number III, the one most highly recommended by Lonely Planet.  This tour covers the private living quarters of Franz Ferdinand, his wife Sophia, and their three children. 

The tour was in Czech, with just two young women and us taking it.  We were provided with audio guides which worked well, providing information on the rooms and some historical background on the family.  Franz Ferdinand bought the property in 1887 and extensively remodeled the residence as well as developing the grounds with gardens, statues, and greenhouses.  FF was an avid hunter, and many of the rooms and hallways are lined with his trophies--many goat antlers--each labeled with the date of demise.  FF married Sophie in 1900 against the wishes of the Hapsburg clan and the Emperor, his uncle Franz Joseph, since she was not of noble birth.  They had three children and an apparently happy family life, spending much of their time at Konopiste rather than their palace in Vienna.  This came to an end in 1914 when FF and Sophie were assassinated in Sarajevo, igniting WWI.

Heading underground

Back at the bike by 12:30 we took a leisurely ride to our lunch stop in Sazava overlooking the muddy river busy with canoes.  Then on to Kutna Hora, a city famous for its medieval silver mines.  We walked towards the large St. Barbara's Cathedral, but stopped to view the Gothic St. James Church first, and then came to the Silver Museum which we had decided not to see.  However it looked more interesting than expected so we joined a Czech tour in progress (with printed English guides in hand), donned coats and helmets and, provided with flashlights, descended into the mines narrow, low and dripping passageways.  An American tour group was following us and we asked if we could join them.  Sure!  They turned out to be an independently traveling 3-generation family group of 12, taking their 18th annual vacation together.


Rob went out for his evening walk, and returned just as the rain started.  If it only rains at night (as has been the case for several days) we really can't complain.  And it does cool the hot humid air.  We will see the other local sites in town tomorrow and then head further east.